IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

 The Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde combines the magic of a floating tourbillon with the logic of a date hand that reverts to its starting position and the power of a 7-day in-house calibre. In 2015, this exclusive timepiece is even more attractive to look at. 

 To mark the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser watch family, IWC has given the Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (Ref. 5046) an additional touch of luxury. The new arched-edge front glass makes the watch appear both slimmer and more elegant. The horns have also been ergonomically optimized to make the watch more comfortable to wear on a slimmer wrist. Another new feature is the exclusive alligator leather strap by Santoni: a fitting accessory for the Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde. The dial of the platinum version is silver plated while the red gold model is fitted with a slate-coloured dial. The reverse side of the watch with its see-through sapphire-glass back is also more attractive. The narrower and partly perforated solid red gold rotor with its “Probus Scafusia” relief engraving provides a generous view of the IWC-manufactured 51900 calibre.

Moving clockwise round the dial of the Portugieser TourbillonMystère Rétrograde, we encounter three milestones in IWC’s illustrious history: at “12 o’clock” is the minute tourbillon first unveiled in 1993; next, at “3 o’clock”, the 7-day power reserve display of the in-house 50000-calibre familylaunched in 2000; and finally, between “6 o’clock” and “9 o’clock”, the retrograde date display created in 2010 exclusively for the Portugieser.

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

The tourbillon, which makes the “12” appear to come to life, gives the watch not only its name but also a touch of mystery. Set in a mirror-finished ring, it forms the visual centrepiece of the entire dial. The complication is mounted on one side only and therefore known as a “flying” tourbillon.This creates the illusion that the balance is floating in mid-air against the deep black background but also allows us to see the “whirlwind”, as its name translates literally, at work. Originally, the tourbillon was designed for use in pocket watches, where it offset the gravitational error inevitablein an oscillating system with a balance and spring, and the resulting deviation in rate. To achieve this, the balance,pallet and escape wheel are mounted in a tiny cage that rotates around its own axis once every minute. This filigree work of art consists of 82 parts and weighs 0.635 grams: a masterpiece of haute horlogerie, made in Schaffhausen.

The second eponymous complication, namely the retrograde date display, was clearly not intended to be hidden, as its uncompromising presence suggests: the semicirculararc from 1 to 31, which has a similar design to that of the railway-track-style chapter ring, takes up a full quarter of the dial. This unusual type of display not only gives the wearer a very special feel for time: unlike a classic date disc, it has the additional advantage that the tourbillon is not concealed by the date disc. Not least of all, the moment at the end of each month when the large hand reverts instantaneously to its starting position is a remarkable event in itself. In months with fewer than 31 days or when the watch has not been worn for a while, the date display can be advanced rapidly using the crown until it jumps back to the 1st of the month. Doing this does not involve resetting the time. On the right-hand side of the dial, the 7-day power reserve display indicates how much energy remains in the IWC-manufactured 51900 calibre.

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

Technical Specifications

MOVEMENT

Mechanical movement – Pellaton automatic winding – Power reserve display – Retrograde date display – Flying minute tourbillon – Glucydur®* beryllium alloy balance with high-precision adjustment cams on balance arms – Breguet spring – See-through sapphire-glass back – Rotor made of 18-caratred gold

WATCH

Materials
Ref. IW504601: case in platinum, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in platinum
Ref. IW504602: case in 18-carat red gold, slate-coloured dial, dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold
Glass sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant 3 bar
Diameter 44.2 mm
Case height 15.3 mm

FEATURES

Mechanical movement – Pellaton automatic winding – Power reserve display – Retrograde date display – Flying minute tourbillon – Glucydur®* beryllium alloy balance with high-precision adjustment cams on balance arms – Breguet spring – See-through sapphire-glass back – Rotor made of 18-caratred gold